A week across Kashmir’s high country, tracing passes between sapphire lakes, flowered valleys, and camps that felt close to the sky.
The climb from Sonamarg made the road disappear quickly. By afternoon, the world had narrowed to a trail, a line of ponies, and mountains rising in every direction.
A different blue each day
Vishansar looked silver under cloud. Kishansar turned deep blue when the sun appeared. Gadsar was edged with wildflowers, while Gangbal reflected Harmukh so clearly that the mountain seemed to continue beneath the water.
The passes were demanding, especially with a full week’s rhythm in our legs, but each crest revealed another valley entirely different from the last.
A note on the route
This is a serious high-altitude trek. Acclimatise, keep buffer days, respect local guidance, and be prepared for weather that can rewrite the day’s plan in minutes.